The Two Towers: Asinelli and Garisenda

In Piazza di Porta Ravegnana, where the roads from Ravenna and Romagna once entered the city, stand the two towers every Bolognese would recognise with their eyes closed. In the Middle Ages Bologna bristled with towers, dozens upon dozens, built by powerful families to defend themselves and to show off. About twenty survive: these two are the most famous.

The Asinelli Tower

Traditionally dated to between 1109 and 1119, it is about 97 metres tall, and reaching the top takes 498 wooden steps – no lift. It leans slightly too, but next to its sister it looks as straight as an arrow. Over the centuries it has served as a watchtower, a prison and even a scientific laboratory.

The Garisenda

Shorter, about 48 metres, but far more tilted: almost 4 degrees, more than the Leaning Tower of Pisa. It was already “shortened” in the 14th century because the ground had given way and it risked collapsing. Dante mentions it in the Inferno, comparing a stooping giant to the Garisenda seen from below when a cloud passes over it and it seems about to fall.

How they are today

Since October 2023 the area around the Garisenda has been closed: sensors detected movements and the base turned out to be deteriorated. A long safety project is under way, with supporting steel frames and foundation works, expected to be completed around 2028. For now, climbing the Asinelli is also suspended.

A student superstition

They say university students shouldn’t climb the Asinelli before graduating, or they’ll never get their degree. Some still believe it, and wait until after their thesis defence to tackle the 498 steps.